A subwoofer is like a valuable part of a home theater. However, home theaters can work without one. With a subwoofer, you will be able to get an amazing sound. Nothing works as great as a subwoofer to lift your home theater experience. But what will happen if you ever face any problem with your subwoofer or notice any malfunctioning? You may also ask if it could possibly be fixed or not? So how can you get to know if your home theater subwoofer is blown?
You can test your subwoofer with a low volume. If it is distorted, then you have a blown or partially blown subwoofer. If there is no sound at all, then the subwoofer has been completely blown. You can also check your cable if you think that’s the issue before making any conclusions.
Subwoofers can be blown when they either receive too much power or too much of a distorted signal. You can easily find out that your subwoofer is blown by listening to the sound or reviewing the woofer’s movement. You can also use a multimeter to find out if the coil is blown.
If you want to test the movement of your woofer, you’ll want to remove the cover to reach the cone. In that case, you have to move the cone to evaluate the damage carefully. Signs that your subwoofer is damaged:
- If you do not notice any movement, then it is really damaged.
- If it is extra shaky, this is also a sign of damage.
- If you hear any scratching sounds from your subwoofer, then it is blown.
- Moreover, you can rather use a multimeter to test for a blown coil. (A multimeter measures the amount of voltage, resistance, and current) so that you can find out if there is a lack of electrical resistance.
If you are already undergoing any of these signs, then you might be having a blown subwoofer. But if you notice that, at first, you will want to assess the situation completely. You have to understand what kind of damage happened to your subwoofer, and then you have to determine what you need to do next.
What Happens When a Subwoofer Blows?
Suppose you are enjoying your home theater system, but suddenly one day, something happens with your low-end sound. It may get very soft, or the sound starts to get distorted. Or you may do not hear any sound from the low-end at all, or it starts to sound very unfamiliar and extra loud. Whatever happens, it is making you think that your subwoofer is blown. You can be frustrated because the subwoofer is like a valuable part of a home theater.
When your subwoofer gets damaged or blown to some degree, this can happen because of two things. Those are your subwoofer either received too much power or too much signal. Many subwoofers have been damaged because of the Clipped signals. If you put too much pressure on your subwoofer with too much power, that can also damage it.
Clipped or Distorted Signals
If you turn up a signal that is distorted, that can also damage your subwoofer. Clipped or distorted signals are really harmful to your subwoofer. Sometimes you will not even notice that your signal is distorted until the levels go so high and it starts to distort and damage your subwoofer.
Too Much Power
Sometimes a subwoofer is blown is due to too much power. Though a lot of sounds can be exciting and enjoyable, a subwoofer can only handle so much. If you push your subwoofer to go beyond its power limits so that you can get more sound can result in damage.
Even though subwoofers are skillfully created to resist more power than their specified RMS (root mean square) ratings, also known as continuous power handling, it is still important to make sure the sound is clear and distortion-free at extra high volumes. You should know your subwoofer RMS wattage to ensure that you are supplying the valid amount of power to your subwoofer continuously.
Different Ways to Test if a Subwoofer is Blown
When you start noticing that there is a probability that a subwoofer in your home theater has been blown, you should fully assess the woofer to determine the total amount of damage that already happened. Damage can happen in more than one place. So you have to find out all the damaged parts carefully. Here are the three main ways to test if a subwoofer is blown.
- Test the sound. Is it clipping, distorted, etc.?
- Test the movement of the cone.
- You can also use a multimeter to inquire about electrical resistance.
In this article, you can learn the exact way to perform these tests without further damaging the possibly inadequate subwoofer. So keep reading.
Test the Sound
You can notice the sound to determine how much your subwoofer has already been damaged because sound quality works like an indicator. Most of the time, what you will hear during a fully blown or partially blown subwoofer are:
No sound at all – if you do not hear anything from your subwoofer, then it has likely been completely blown. Test the cable and audio source as well. Make sure that those are well before you do anything to the subwoofer.
Partial sound with distortion – if you ever notice a weak, distorted sound coming from your subwoofer at any volume, then it might be because of a partially blown subwoofer on your hands.
Test the Cone
Reaching to a subwoofer cone to identify damage is not so hard. All the Subwoofer cones come with a built-in suspension system that allows them to move fluidly. So you can easily identify when the cone is off only by using your hands. When you are doing it, you should be very careful and lightly press on the subwoofer cone. Now you will get to know that what you might experience and what they actually mean.
- No movement – if you lightly press on the cone but it does not move, it is an indicator that damage has occurred.
- A wobbly cone – if you see that the cone unsteadily moves around, then it’s likely the suspension system has been greatly hazarded.
- Scratching sounds – if you hear the cone make scratchy noises while you move it with your hands, then the damage has occurred. You should remove it from your home theater system before it causes damage to any other equipment.
Use a Multimeter
A multimeter is a very useful tool. This tool will be able to inform you if a subwoofer has any damage to its coil. With this device, you can easily check the electrical resistance (also known as ohms, symbol = Ω). If you find that the electrical resistance is zero, then the coil might have been damaged. Again, if the multimeter’s reading does not stay in place, it is also a sign of you having a damaged coil in your hand. So you should probably keep a multimeter around the house. A multimeter is very easy to use. You just have to complete the steps given here.
- At first, disconnect the subwoofer from the power source if it has one.
- Disconnect the audio input from the subwoofer.
- If an external amplifier or receiver is not powering your subwoofer, then you will need to remove the sub from its cage.
- Then you have to connect the two probes to the multimeter. And turn the multimeter on to measure the ohms (Ω) of your subwoofer.
- You have to connect the red probe with the positive lead and the black probe with the negative lead.
Then the multimeter will start to measure the amount of resistance. You will usually have to round up to the nearest whole number to know the correct resistance.
What to Do if You Know Your Subwoofer Is Blown
Damaging a subwoofer is really very stressful. But you should take action as soon as possible once you get to know that your subwoofer is damaged.
At first, you should remove your subwoofer from your working home theater system. Because if you do not remove it from the place, it may end up causing damage to your other equipment, which will be more stressful and cost you a lot of money as well. So you should completely remove it.
If you do not have any electronics experience, you should call someone who is an expert. If your subwoofer is relatively new, it could possibly be covered under warranty. So check this before you start to disassemble the subwoofer. It is good to test the subwoofer by yourself. But it is even better to get more people to estimate the damage. So you can call your extremely tech-savvy friend or take it to the Geek Squad at Best Buy.
And finally, you should now make a decision about what you will do without your subwoofer. Are you on a budget to buy a new one? Could you live without it, currently? Have you ever considered trying to fix it? Most of the time, people choose to buy a new one, but there may be another route for you. So we recommend you to review all of your options to find out what’s best for you.
Best Seller List of Subwoofers:
- 10" front-firing spun-copper IMG woofer
- All-digital amplifier with 300 watts peak power
- Volume low pass crossover and phase control
- Line level LFE RCA inputs for maximum receiver compatibility
- Dimensions 14 5" x 12 5" x 16 4"
- 12" high excursion spun-copper Imp woofer
- 29 hertz – 120 hertz plus /- 3 dB
- 400 watt
- Max acoustic output 116dB
- Bass-reflex via rear firing port. Amplifier power (control/peak): 200 watts/400 watts
- This is an 8" powered subwoofer capable of producing 60 watts (RMS) output. The subwoofer has a frequency response range of 50 to 250 Hz with a lowpass crossover filter, which can be adjusted from 50 to 150 Hz. Gain and frequency knobs on the control panel allow you to adjust the crossover filter and the power output for the optimum blend and balance of bass output with your stereo or surround speakers.Waterproof : No
- The subwoofer has multiple input options, which allow it to be used with any existing stereo or 5.1 (or greater) amplifier system. For each input there is a corresponding output.
- High-level inputs accept a full-range signal from the amplifier's stereo speaker outputs. When connecting the unit as part of a 5.1 system, these would be taken off the Front Left and Front Right outputs in parallel to the standard pair of front speakers. The subwoofer provides its own power and includes impedance matching circuitry, so this will not reduce the power output to the front speakers or affect the overall impedance load on the amplifier.
- Additionally, the subwoofer has a set of right/left Line Level inputs. If using a standard stereo system, without a special subwoofer output, you can connect these to the left and right line level outputs on the amp. The subwoofer will then combine the signals to process the mono bass signal it needs to drive the speaker. If you are using an amplifier with a single mono subwoofer line level output, simply use an RCA "Y" cable to split the output and send it to the two line level inputs on the subwoofer.
- The subwoofer is housed in an attractive black wood cabinet that measures 13.75" x 11.75" x 11.75" (H x W x D). The driver and a 2 3/4" sound port are located on the front, covered by a black cloth speaker grill.
- Powerful 12" copper-spun front-firing woofer
- All-digital amplifier delivers 400 watts of dynamic power
- Equally impressive with music and movies; Brushed black polymer veneer cabinet with satin painted plinth
- Low pass crossover and phase control
- Line/LFE inputs for compatibility with most receivers
- POWERED SUBWOOFER FOR EXTRA BASS and PUNCH – A 10-inch Dynamic Balance woofer and a uniquely configured directed port provides accurate bass with added depth that brings your music and movies alive. A perfect solution for your small-to-mid size room.Waterproof : No
- LOUDER CLEARER SOUND EVEN AT HIGH VOLUME – Enjoy a thrilling yet balanced music experience with rich, deep sound, even at low frequencies. BLENDS EASILY WITH ANY SPEAKER and plays the most demanding nodes effortlessly without any distortion
- DOUBLE THE AMPLIFIER POWER TO 100 Watts of Dynamic Power with its in-built 50-watt RMS amp. Sophisticated engineering with best in class resonance-free driver materials make this sub highly durable and FIT FOR EXTENDED USE
- EASY TO INTEGRATE WITH EXISTING SYSTEMS – Hook up this sub to the receiver and upgrade your music sound instantly. Features continuously variable 80-160 Hz crossover and 40-160 Hz (-3dB) frequency response
- A sleek detachable grille on the front, speaker and line-level inputs as well as speaker-level outputs on the back, and a Phase Toggle Switch for multiple subwoofers, make this sub cohesive and complete.
- New twisted flare port contributes to clear and tight bass
- Advanced YST II (Yamaha Active Servo Technology II)
- 8” cone woofer
- Stylish addition to any room
- Dynamic Power: 100W (5 ohms)
- Features: Rockville Rock Shaker 10 Black 600 Watt Powered 10" Home Theater Subwoofer, 600 Watts Peak / 300 Watts RMS, Built-in Class D Amplifier, Enclosure is made of top quality MDF wood. (MDF wood sounds better and lasts longer than particle board), High-grade vinyl enclosure covering with a beautiful finish, The enclosure is built with the perfect air space to maximize sound quality and punch, The rear firing port is engineered for optimal sound
- Class “D” Amplifier Circuitry with Auto-Switching Power Supply, High-grade woofer with foam surround and paper cone, Woofer has a Y30 grade magnet, and 1.5” 4-layer voice coil, Distortion-Free Playback Even at Max Volume Listening! Very Clean Sound!, Enclosure is filled with fire resistant poly cotton, Detachable foam grill
- Inputs / Outputs / Controls: RCA line input, RCA line output, Speaker High level inputs, Speaker High level outputs, Volume control, Phase switch (0°-180°), Crossover Frequency control, Power switch, Standard IEC power cable included
- Specifications: Amplifier: Class D, Woofer Impedance: 4 Ohm, Signal to noise ratio: 85 dB (Maximum output with THD+N
- Rear side of the subwoofer: Subwoofer (LINE) Jack in, Subwoofer (LINE) Jack out, Volume Control, Phase switch (0° - 180°), Frequency control, Power switch, Speaker high level in, Speaker high level out??
- Big sub-low end. 8-inch front-firing driver delivers smooth, accurate sub-low frequencies.
- Bluetooth 5.0 stereo input ensures outstanding wireless audio quality.
- Power to spare: 100W Class AB amplifier (50W RMS) delivers 100 dB SPL peak output (1 meter) output with minimal distortion. That’s plenty loud.
- Deep low frequencies: 30 Hz to 200 Hz frequency response.
- Input gain control gives minus 30 dB to plus 6 dB of continuously variable output
- Rockville Rock Shaker 6.5 Black 200 Watt Powered 8" Home Theater Subwoofer.
- 200 Watts Peak / 100 Watts RMS. Built-in Class D Amplifier. Enclosure is made of top quality MDF wood. (MDF wood sounds better and lasts longer than particle board). High-grade vinyl enclosure covering with a beautiful finish. The enclosure is built with the perfect air space to maximize sound quality and punch. The rear firing port is engineered for optimal sound.
- Class “D” Amplifier Circuitry with Auto-Switching Power Supply. High-grade woofer with foam surround and paper cone. Woofer has a Y30 grade magnet. Distortion-Free Playback Even at Max Volume Listening! Very Clean Sound!. Enclosure is filled with fire resistant poly cotton. Detachable foam grill
- Inputs / Outputs / Controls: RCA line input. RCA line output. Speaker High level inputs. Speaker High level outputs. Volume control. Phase switch (0°-180°). Crossover Frequency control. Power switch. Standard IEC power cable included
- Specifications: Amplifier: Class D. Woofer Impedance: 4 Ohm. THD:
- Complete Sound Package: Complete package subwoofers upgrades your sound system, allowing you to enjoy your time on the road and entertain you during intense traffic
- Car Amplifier: Boss Audio Riot Monoblock A/B MOSFET power Amplifier delivers peak power of 1100 watts, RMS power of 825 watts, bass boost switchable or 18 dB, and Low Pass Filter of 35 Hz to 160 Hz
- Sturdy Dust Caps: Comes with durable polypropylene dust caps that can survive the rigors of most trunks and are lightweight, allowing them to efficiently move using less power
- Power Capacitor: Includes 2 Farad 20V LED Digital Voltage Car Audio Power Capacitor; Can handle 200 watts RMS power, resulting in a power level of 400 watts RMS/800 watts peak for the entire enclosure
- Subwoofer Specs: Measures 13.5 inches long, 14 inches wide, and 29.69 inches tall; Easily installs with the competition quality Sound Storm AKS8 Complete 8 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit
Related Questions:
Can you fix a blown subwoofer?
Yes, there are numerous ways that you can use to fix a subwoofer. But the task is not easy at all. It will require precision and skill. You will need to detach and separate parts of the subwoofer.
Fixing the area of the subwoofer that has been damaged is also quite challenging. If you want to get your blown subwoofer repaired, it’s best to get it in the hands of an experienced professional with the tools and knowledge to complete the tasks at hand. So we do not recommend you to take attempt to fix your subwoofer unless you actually know what you are doing.
What are the good options for purchasing a new subwoofer?
There are many kinds of subwoofer available on the market from different manufacturers. Day by day, they are getting much better and upgraded. Though it is a matter of sorrow that your subwoofer is blown, you will really enjoy shopping for a new subwoofer. You can find an option available for every budget very easily. The Polk Audio has a few highly rated, budget-friendly options on Amazon.
The PWS10 10-Inch Powered Subwoofer and its PSW505 12-Inch Powered Subwoofer really come with good build quality. The Bic Acoustech PL-200 II Subwoofer is another great option, but you have to spend a slightly higher amount of money for this. And if you have a budget of 500 dollars, you can upgrade to the SVS SB-100 Subwoofer with a 12-inch Driver, 300-Watts RMS, and a Sealed Cabinet. You can choose one of the above or find something else. But whatever your specifications are, there is always a solution for you.
- Built-in BASH amp
- output: 1,000 watts peak/250 watts RMS
- 12-in. front-firing, long-throw, heavy-duty poly-injected woofer with high-power magnet and long excursion surround
- dual flared front ports provide positioning versatility
- Frequency response: 21 Hz to 200 HZ (±3 dB)
-our editorial board has reviewed this article and has been approved for publication according to our editorial policy.
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Last update on 2025-04-24
